Not worth reading unless you can give some advice on fuel problems.

Car is a 93 civic cx hatch with(relevant crap):
-gsr head lsvtec
-blox intake manifold
-chipped p28 that works(checked on another car)
-walboro 255 pump that is in known working condition
-new fuel filter
-motor swap done by some idiot
-type r tb
-known working tested injector, 2 are new
-car is in time
-car gets good spark
-car makes good compression
-has half tank of gas
-not throwing any codes when j1 jumper is removed and still runs same way

Ok, I am running out of things to check and energy to mess with this car. I picked it up off of brandon(mmmz28) last summer and it has had a consistent issue of running like shit and it has been getting worse and worse. I know it is a fuel problem because it is only getting 35psi of fuel which is quite low. But it will run, for a little while, and then it drops off to less then 20psi and it dies. It has done this before I started to do anything to it and after I replace a lot of items. It now has a walboro 255lph pump, new fuel filter, new injectors(replaced or checked by p/o), and fuel pressure gauge.

I had bought a new tune originally thinking the kid that sold it to brandon just made his own. That didn't work but it ran my other car just fine. So that is not the issue. I tried an aem fpr that was adjustable, still wouldn't run no matter how much I messed with it. By mid winter it wouldn't run at all and it sat. So last week I tried to jump it and start it to see if it would in slightly none freezing ass cold weather. It ran for like two seconds then died. As of this weekend I bought the pump and gauge and installed them along with the new filter. It still wouldn't create good pressure with the aem, so I switched back to the stock. I still couldn't get it to run well but it did run a little better and it still tapered off. I know that the pump works because it was working fine in the car it came out of and the fact that it is creating pressure.

The only thing I can think of is a kink or clog in the line from the tank to the filter, but I can't visually see anything. When it primes it builds up to the 35psi and then it slowly lowers and then it dies. So I am thinking there is a kink some where in the line that stops it from feeding fast enough to keep up with the injectors. It'll run longer if I don't mess with the throttle.

Any one have any ideas? Sorry for the long post and shitty format, hard to write a detailed post on my phone.

Really want this car running before the seasons gets started, but it's being a pita

this is ridiculous. terrin get that thing to my house and lets work on it, im free the rest of the week and all weekend and a few days starting next week. get it here and lets make it run

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retired mechanic. now just plays with sticks and balls.

how am i supposed to get it there? it won't drive for more then a minute? lol

You should leave now.

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Good plan ill get on that shortly.

i said id fix it, i didnt tell you id get it here, thats on you. you dont call your mechanic and tell them to come get your car, u bring it to them! lol

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retired mechanic. now just plays with sticks and balls.

I have no truck/ trailer or the 150 bucks to have it towed from monrovia to gwood. I appreciate the offer though.

Though some one did bring up a good point to check all the wiring that deals with the fuel pump, May not be getting all the power it is supposed to be getting.

check some of your grounds...my integra had some of the same problems...i grounded it in better places and added 1 and it started fine with no worries afterwards.

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It has some nice ground in the engine bay. I have cleaned most of them and it has a nice big on that was added. I'll have to trace the wires back to tank.

pinch off the return line see if it rises?

Fuel pressure regulator, or bad ground.

Though, on my Ef, the turn signals and whole rear end grounded to the same ground as the fuel pump. Do you notice if you let off the brake, turn the lights on/off does it get better/worse?

Mine would die when I hit the brakes, would sputter when I turned the turn signal on.... Sputter with everything. Cleaned and tightened the ground block in the rear end under the panel by the latch.... Fixed er right up

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SCCA#405241
"The Juicer"
"ONE LUNG RACING"

#77 ST

2012 Honda Fit- daily
1980 civic wagon- soon to be old school Japanese FULL OF WIN
70 Honda trail ct70 4spd
1991 JDM Honda Chaly

Also.... Main relay potentially. Take it apart and re-solder all the connections. Get the current pool of solder hot and liquidy, add a tiny more. Then try again. (I swear, it's a common problem in hondarz)

I'm gonna bet money on this one. Do it or ban

__________________
SCCA#405241
"The Juicer"
"ONE LUNG RACING"

#77 ST

2012 Honda Fit- daily
1980 civic wagon- soon to be old school Japanese FULL OF WIN
70 Honda trail ct70 4spd
1991 JDM Honda Chaly

If it was the main relay the pump wouldn't cycle at all.

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The easiest way to check all this would be to get a volt meter out and check for 12v to the pump. Keep meter on it and start up and see if voltage drops off. Also check the resistance to ground. These test will determine which side of the circuit to troubleshoot. If you get a chance post your results.

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05 Subaru Legacy Wagon GT- Turboback, Cobb Tuned
78 Tomos Bullet- Cafe'd, 70cc kit, pipe

i was thinking this as well. if he wasnt in monrovia id drive my ass out there and help out lol

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retired mechanic. now just plays with sticks and balls.

In a perfect word, yes. But the way these main relays fail, they just BARELY break the solder point. If you look super closely, you can actually see a hairline crack completely around the terminal in the pool of solder. Meaning, sometimes it works for a split second, sometimes it don't. Sometimes it works for months, then stops. I've had this happen to 2 of my cars. Random no start condition, and random spuder out condition.

I've also had to fix a similar issue in a Mazda rx8 radio. The same things happen in the heater controls also. Re-solder all the points and boom, no more problem.

Just try it. Worst case seniaro is (if you don't currently have one) you waste $7 on a soldering iron.

Take the main relay out, look on the underside, you'll see how it comes apart. One tab on each side. Then you'll see the 8-10 solder points. Re-do them, plug in and try again.

__________________
SCCA#405241
"The Juicer"
"ONE LUNG RACING"

#77 ST

2012 Honda Fit- daily
1980 civic wagon- soon to be old school Japanese FULL OF WIN
70 Honda trail ct70 4spd
1991 JDM Honda Chaly

i run into electronics all the time with bad solder joint issues. once things get heated up and workin it will start to fail. seen plenty of these issues

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retired mechanic. now just plays with sticks and balls.

this guy has no idea what he is talking about!

Here is why i dont think its the relay. It always gets fuel and alway has spark. Even when it wouldnt run it still pumped fuel. Just a shity amount. I am leaning towards bad ground or kink/ clog. My old eg had a bad main relay as well as my old accord. Ive seen a few people have theirs go bad. None of which acted like this. But who knows.

The time it took you to reply to this thread, you could have ruled it out. Same with the ground. Pop off rear panel where your latch is, clean ground

__________________
SCCA#405241
"The Juicer"
"ONE LUNG RACING"

#77 ST

2012 Honda Fit- daily
1980 civic wagon- soon to be old school Japanese FULL OF WIN
70 Honda trail ct70 4spd
1991 JDM Honda Chaly