Ok, lets start at the begining since Ben is confused, as well as everyone else.

First is current discprtion of the car and parts that are installed.

93 base cx hatch, power nothing, manual steering, etc

Suspension:
-PIC selects fully adjustable suspension
-Rear disc swap with poly bushing inserts
- Rear adjustable camber arms
-New bushings in certain areas up front
-Rear lcas with spot for good sways

Brakes
-EBC green stuff pads with integra disc
-russle brake lines all around
-high temp brake fluid
-home made brake ducts(half way done making them)

Engine(currently head is off waiting for oil hole to be tapped)
-b18a1 block with good compression
-b16 head wit gsr cams
-mls gasket
-arp head studs
-arp rod bolts
-gsr timing stuffs
-type arghh oil pump

Exhaust
-type r header, high flow custom inovative exhaust

Trans
-pos hydro to cable conversion ls that has annoyingly hard peddal feel, but it is a shorter geared ls trans.
-needs clutch soon, slips on launch

Ecu
-email chipped ectune tune for simalar set from some one on hondatech.

What I would like to do with it.

I do not want to build a car for soley autox. I want to be able to drive it more then 6-7 times a year and enjoy it. So a stock d,b, w/e is out of the quesiton. Hence my minum of wanting about 250 wheel on a reliable set up. Not enough power to screw me over in autox, but enough to drop it down a gear and romp on it and get the good feeling of g's. Car weighs in at almost nothing. So max power is not my goal. I am not building a drag car. Just want it to feel good.

My 100% want to do's
-b16 hydro trans from pat, have it rebuilt with a diff installed
- much better tire set up with possible flares up front for a 225 width tire. Can't fit them like kyle on the teg
-put some sways on it to stop it from sliding so much and settle the car while is turn(has none at themoment)


My not so sure on what the hell I want to do one each set up I am considering.

Staying B
Pros: already lsvtec and the essentials are there. Can make 250whp with turbo setup fairly easy
Cons: my block even though it is good now will need rebuilt for this. At least I don't feel safe driving it hard as I would like to under boost.
Cost: If I go this way I would like to at least have the bottom end checked out, balanced, bearings, shot peened rods, after markets pistons, etc. Something that can handle constant load. But I still have to worry about sleeve issues. I would be looking at close to 700 ish for just to get the block where i want it.

Going H head f22 block
Pros: Much more stout set up then any b with much more potential for power vs money. F22 sleeves are are solid cast iron and not iron sleeved in aluminum. Also does not have frm stuff that H22's have. Very good for just a rods and pistons build. Do not need to sleeve them. That and I could get almost a half litter of displacement over a b18. This also does not need a different type of ems. Can still run of the same stuff as a b swap. Hondata, neptune, etc. Also much better gearing with a b trans. B trans is also more durable.
Cons: Cost of a complete h2b kit is about 1300 for everthing from plate, flywheel, clutch, spacers, shift fork, moutns, etc. But on the other hand I could probably sell my curretn set up for a little more then that. I am building a seperate trans anyway.
Cost: F22 block from the pickapart is dirt cheap. H22 head is about 250-300. This would also cost me about the same to build the block, but no worries about sleeves.

K series
Pros: Out of the box it is an excellent swap. It is reliable and can be beat on over and over again.
Cons: cost, cost, cost, cost, cost. ep3 engine(cheapest one) with trans=1600. This only makes like 160crank. Type s motor no trans=2500+. Mounts=550+. Swap header=350+. Five speed trans are not all that great(so I have been told). Six speeds will cost you a $$.

K is out of the question. Not paying for k-pro. EVAR

By the time I do a decent k swap I could have bought a nice e36 m3.


I would like to do what egeezy(sp) does. Autox and road course days through out the year. Not for competion but just for fun. But I also want a fun car to drive on the street that is a little more umph to it.

Or just ditch it all, sell it after I get it running painted with current set up for 4-5k. And get a real car. But either way I still want a fun honda down the line.


As stated beforeLONG TERM goal would be a car like this. But set up my way. And not catch it on fire
Wings would be made detachable for driving around on the street. But you get the idea

http://http://www.modified.com/featu...x/viewall.html

also turbo parts that I already have

-T25 turbo manifold for b
j-dm sprt t25 turbo, close to a dsm big 16g, maybe a 20g. Internal gated
- ic and piping
- blitz bov
- oil/water lines
-gauges
-wideband

"Sleeve issues" are nonexistant at only 250whp, don't worry about that. I also wouldn't bother with aftermarket rods or pistons for only 250whp. Just do a mild rebuild/freshening on that bottom end, drop it back in.

Stick LS-V turbo. You've already got almost all of it there. What you would save by not buying sticks and slugs, invest towards your tuning solution.

It's the simplest, cheapest, and easiest solution out of what you've got up there.

I would personally prefer N/A for what you're wanting, but N/A is the expensive way to go slow, and won't give you the kick in the pants you're looking for.

__________________


My Escort cost more than your Porsche.

sleeve issues will become an issue down the line. But I could probably get away with it on the b for awhile. Most likely I will just get it tuned on the current setup as it sits with a good tune. And work on building the g hybrid on the side for when I get bored of it. I am sure I i will be content next year with a turbo b putting down 250-300 wheel in a 2k pound car.

Though after getting my feet wet and getting seat time like you stated I would like to be on par with that hasport car in terms of power.

This is very simple.

H2B - bolted up and tuned.

/thread

ok. since i am here and got brought up. i will go in no order because well, i ate mcdonalds for lunch and feel like a bag of sagging labias.

225s in an eg/eh. i am doing it now. +40 wheels 7.5 inches wide. rear has 225s on it now on a 7 with the same offset. only rubs with a passenger, then again that weekend i turned maybe 10 laps at most. zero at more than 7/10ths.

"feeling the g's." don't say that again. g force junky is almost always too slow aka too fast in slow corners.

at this point in life i have thought about f ing it too. sell it all live comfortable. but then i think of all the stress i would have from zero seat time and back to rental karts twice a month.

what i think you should do. fix what needs to be fixed, i do as much preventative maintence as possible. if i think it should be done, i do it.

horsepower. who gives a piss. roll the crap out of everything. horsepower is to make up for the lack of driver mod.

i hardly ever drive my car on the streets anymore. matter of fact, the only time it has been on the road was to drive to putnam, the lrp fun autox, and to work to align it. other than that it just sees the track or the garage.

on a final note..have fun with whatever seat time you get. and don't ever forget the fun aspect of it. at the track i have a good time and just go to work. at autox i have a different mindset and i don't know why. like a i don't give a crap i'm just going to cruise around. then i look at the time sheets and i'm middle of the pack. it took me until the lrp autox to figure that out, why go if you going to just go. have fun and pedal hard. i guess it took me to see will lahee pedal the piss out of an ef for me to get that. lol. so once i get the db level to where it needs to be, i will be back a new man.

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newleaf. / 521 / BRAP!

the hp thing is ONLY for my enjoyment of going fast. I own a dog shit slow daily and it is depressing. I have owned turbo cars before and I want another. Has nothing to do with making me faster on the track. But where you don't drive your car on a regular basis. I don't want to do that. So I want that extra umphh for when I am puttering around town.

When talking about g's, I was referring to the squish you in the back of your seat kind.

What specs are your wheels and tires. I own a set up 16x7.5, but have been looking at getting a set of 15 or 14's to run cheaper tires

wish it were so...

i still say get a hydro trans for it and go to pick a part and pick up a ls motor and throw your turbo kit on it, if you really feel you need to build it i would just pick up some shot penned rods and some arp rod bolts and put some type arggg pistons in it, should raise the compression some and then if you don't end up turbo'ing it you wont have a total turd, but if you end up boosting you will have a setup with little to no turbo lag when paired to the right turbo

hydro lsd trans is a 100% go. Just waiting on pat to bring it to kyle to look at it.

I just don't see why to get a lesser b engine if mine is fine. If I was staying na, I was going to go shot penned rods and ctr's anyway.

i was meaning teg type r pistons, i think with those your compression would be low enough with a good tune you would be fine on low boost. CTR pistons in a ls motor with vtec head net a compression greater then 12:1.....i was saying if you sold your lsvtec that would be a option.... bring that head by tomorrow night after work and i can tap that head

Change the clutch bolt a jackson racing supercharger on it with the b16 trans and call it a day. On 10lbs ppl are making 250ish whp..n/a response, turbo torque, no lag..it seems to be the perfect setup for your goals

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buy my honda parts!

http://www.indycarscene.com/classifi...hp?product=165

Too Long; Didn't read.

Basically anyone wanna take any side bets that this will never get done?

Terrin- Pick one thing, and GO!

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Taylor D.

Imports: When old school means 1991

Yup.

Ill see what I can do. Prob hit you up.

Clutch will be done with trans. Though with cost of sc, kinda pointless.

your one to talk. Hahaha


Anyway. Lsv is getting turbod till it gives and I am going to start building a g22 or h22 meanwhile. Done. Turbo will be running end of sept. After first week of paying off my last mri...

Are the EF wheel wells bigger than the EGs? I didn't think they were.
I run 225 Hankooks up front on Rota Slips (15x7.5, 40 offset) no problem. You kind of need a right alignment to do it, but possible. Slight rub at full lock, but no biggie. You could also run a 205 Bridgestone or 195 Toyo on the same wheel no problem. The 195 would have less rubbing issues since the sidewall would be stretched out (or in I should say) a bit.

glad I could inspire, Brad. Just don't look at the results... my co-driver pwned me at all local events this year.

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Indy Region SCCA
Member #366286

I rub with 205's in the back. But im not worried about the rear. Rear doesnt slide at all. Or at least not yet...

Will prob have to roll the fronts.

same wheel i have up front. fenders are rolled, last year on softer springs the front would rub at the track under load/compression. no bar. this year no bar but stiffer springs with more camber and no rubby.

i haven't looked at the results. i am too pissed that i have only done one event this year. autox wise, pretty weak, never thought i would say i miss autox but i do. i plan on going down to cbus after the nasa event at autobahn next month.


throw some more camber at the rear, you will be fine or raise it up a hair.

rear end not sliding can be changed with driving technique as well. or if you have a push hog then work with those tire pressures.

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newleaf. / 521 / BRAP!

just rebuild (not sleeve) and boost your motor!!!!!

build it with the most quality parts!